Arriving at the Blue Lagoon only to find hundreds of tourists fighting for a single square meter of rock quickly turns a Mediterranean dream into a stressful ordeal. Walking just 20 to 25 minutes away from the main ferry drop-off completely changes the experience, swapping loud boat music for natural shade, uncrowded sand, and explorable sea caves. This guide covers how to reach Santa Marija Bay, where the quiet coves hide, and how to time your day so you have the island almost to yourself.
- Walking distance from Blue Lagoon: 20 to 25 minutes on a dusty, unshaded dirt path
- Facilities at Santa Marija Bay: basic kiosk (bring cash), public showers, sunbed rentals
- Santa Marija Caves access: only by private boat charter, kayak, or jet ski
- Comino Tower: entry by donation; look for the flying flag to know if volunteers have opened the doors
Why Escape the Blue Lagoon Crowds?
The Blue Lagoon peaks in chaos between 10:00 AM and 3:00 PM during the summer months. Ferries constantly unload day-trippers, leaving almost zero space to lay down a towel. The water is undeniably clear, but the noise level and the sheer density of people make relaxation impossible.
Moving inland or heading toward the eastern coast of Comino gives you back the silence. You get the same crystalline Mediterranean water without the chaotic commercial vibe.
Santa Marija Bay: Comino's Quiet Alternative
Santa Marija Bay sits on the northern coast of the island and offers a completely different atmosphere. Shallow, calm water rolls onto a proper sandy beach, a stark contrast to the sharp limestone edges surrounding the Blue Lagoon. Only one family permanently resides near this bay, making it one of the least populated spots in the entire archipelago.
How to Get to Santa Marija Bay from Blue Lagoon
The journey requires a short hike. From the Blue Lagoon ferry pier, follow the dirt trail heading east across the island. The walk takes about 20 to 25 minutes depending on your pace.
Wear comfortable sneakers instead of flip-flops, since the path consists of loose gravel and uneven rocks. The route lacks any kind of shelter, leaving you completely exposed to the sun, so bring plenty of water for the walk if you cross during midday. If the heat is too much, a local often parks a 4x4 near the Blue Lagoon and runs visitors over to the bay for a small cash fare, which saves you the dusty climb.
Beach Facilities, Shade, and Sand Quality
Natural shade is incredibly rare on Comino, but Santa Marija Bay backs onto a row of mature tamarisk trees. You can set up your towel under the branches to escape the intense afternoon heat.
The sand here is fine and golden, making water entry effortless. A small, seasonal kiosk operates near the beach, selling cold drinks and simple snacks, and it relies on cash only, so keep small Euro notes handy. You will also find basic public showers tucked near the trees, alongside a small police station and a quaint medieval chapel that still holds Sunday mass.
Exploring the Santa Marija Caves
Just around the headland from the bay, the Santa Marija Caves form a complex network of submerged tunnels and cavernous air pockets carved by centuries of wave action. You cannot reach them on foot; access requires navigating the water. Small private boats easily slip into the wider cave mouths, while kayaks offer a quieter way to get up close to the rock faces. The same limestone caverns and surrounding coastline feature heavily on Gozo and Comino sea kayaking routes, which is the calmest way to explore them.
Best Spots for Snorkeling and Diving
The cave system consists of five distinct sections. The first three caves feature shallow, well-lit water teeming with banded sea bream and the occasional octopus, and visibility frequently exceeds 20 meters.
The fourth cave is much larger, boasting dramatic structural arches and rich underwater flora. The fifth cave provides a darker, deeper environment favored by scuba divers, leading to an enclosed air pocket. If you plan to snorkel in the deeper recesses, a waterproof flashlight proves highly useful. Comino sits among the better entry points covered in any roundup of diving and snorkeling around Malta, thanks to that consistent visibility.
The Hike to Comino Tower (St. Mary's Tower)
For a break from the water, hike up to the Comino Tower. Built in 1618 by the Knights of St. John, this massive watchtower sits on the highest point of the island. The panoramic views from the roof stretch entirely across the channel, covering both Gozo and northern Malta.
The tower famously doubled as the Château d'If in the film The Count of Monte Cristo, one of several Maltese sites you can trace on a tour of Malta movie filming locations.
Opening Hours and Entrance Fees
Din l-Art Ħelwa, a local heritage NGO, manages the tower using volunteer staff, so operating hours stay irregular. The rule of thumb is simple: if the flag flies above the tower, it is open to the public. Volunteers usually open it on Wednesday, Friday, Saturday, and Sunday from 10:30 AM to 3:00 PM, April to October, weather permitting.
There is no official ticket price, but a small cash donation of around 2 euros is expected at the door to fund ongoing restoration. Children enter free, and the volunteers inside are often happy to explain the tower's wartime and cinematic history.
San Niklaw Bay: Another Hidden Retreat
Located between the Blue Lagoon and Santa Marija Bay, San Niklaw Bay offers another quiet pocket of clear water. It served as the private beach for the old Comino Hotel. Since the hotel complex is currently closed and undergoing a major redevelopment, the bay sees very little foot traffic. The water is pristine, though construction noise in the background can occasionally break the silence.
Best Time to Visit Comino for a Quiet Experience
Timing your trip dictates your entire experience on the island, since mid-summer afternoons guarantee massive crowds and extreme heat. Picking your window carefully is the single biggest lever you have, far more than which beach you choose. For a wider seasonal breakdown across the islands, the patterns in the best time to visit Malta apply closely to Comino.
- Early morning (May to October): catch the first ferry out of Ċirkewwa, around 8:30 AM, for a solid two hours of near-total silence before the large tour boats arrive
- September and October: the optimal window, with water temperatures around 25°C and most summer tourists gone, making the island far easier to navigate and enjoy
If you are weaving Comino into a longer trip, it slots neatly into a Malta, Gozo and Comino itinerary as a half-day escape rather than a full day. Whichever month you choose, leaving the Blue Lagoon behind for an hour is what turns a crowded boat stop into a genuine island day. The full picture of the famous spot itself sits in our breakdown of the Blue Lagoon on Comino, which pairs naturally with these quieter coves.
